Hi, this is Steve from DrumDial and in this
video series I am rebuilding a set of 25 and 28 inch Premier timpani. It took me about
a week to refurbish and restore this classic set of 35 year old timpani to new condition. So lets get started with our initial inspection
to see what needs to be done. As you can see, the bowl frame hoop has some
minor blemishing here and the bowl will need some work at this gouge. The struts will need to be stripped and inspected
for cracks along with the base assembly. The fine tuning wheel or crown assembly will
need to be taken apart also. These castors are in really bad shape. Now, this Planet gauge cable is loose, but
I can work with this type of tuning gauge. Ouch! Lots of damage here, rust,.. and this
pedal assembly has seen better days. This will need a total overhaul. The underside of the grip rod and clutch assembly
is sticking. Not all of the original Premier tuning gauge
is here. Damage on this strut and another deep nick
in the bowl. This looks to be in pretty good shape. But is sticking a bit here at the spider arm
linkages. I really like this fine tuning wheel. It’s
what gives these Premiers such a classic look; and.. when it’s working right, it really is
a very nice feature. Ouch! These castors have got to go. The rubber
is dried and crumbling. Definitely time for an upgrade. The grip rod has some surface corrosion and
will need to be polished. The bearings inside may need to be replaced. And, the foot pedal needs some work also. More polishing needed here as well. This looked like a crack in the base, but
luckily it is only dirt and grime. More polishing. A little more cleaning.. But that’s to be expected. Not a crack, just dirty. Lots of damage on the bowl ring. This Planet gauge actually looks pretty good. More surface damage. We won’t know if there is any cracking until
we get these struts disassembled and completely stripped. A quick tip here: Before removing any of the
bolts, I always mark a lug, the bowl hoop and strut with a Sharpie ink pen. This way
we will always get good alignment. Next, I’ll quickly check the bearing edge
for any severe nicks or dents. Here’s one. And.. Here’s another. The rest of the bearing edge feels good These two spots will need to be fixed. The Teflon tape here is in really bad shape and will need to be replaced. I’m more concerned with damage to the bearing edge. This section is OK. This section here is where I found the bad
nick in the bearing edge. You can see that the chip is stuck is stuck to the Teflon tape. Lets get a close up of that. This is caused by an impact, maybe stick damage? And, This portion is even worse. Even though these impact damage sites are
tough to look at, they need to be dealt with. Luckily this can be fixed. And, I’ll do that
now. I repaired the edge and bowl damage with an epoxy that’s designed for fiberglass. I smoothed the edges and formed the epoxied areas to perfectly match the bearing edge. This is easy when you have the right tools.
In this case a squeegee for the top edge and another shorter one with a more flexible
edge for the side. Then, I used sanding sponge blocks, medium and fine grit. Followed up with 1000 grit, polishing emery paper. The edges came out perfect. I followed up with a light damp cloth to remove
any dust or sanding particles. Nice and smooth. I’ll use this same process
to finish up the second bowl. This is the frame without the bowl and will
give you a pretty good idea of the placement of the linkages and how the frame, bowl hoop,
and base are assembled. This the the top of the frame hoop and shows
the wear caused by the bowl rubbing on it. These are the protective frame felts and there are more on the inside of the struts near the linkages. The felts help reduce rattles
caused by vibration. The felts on the inside edge of the hoop flange
will need to be replaced as well. This is a close up of the linkage that will
need to be cleaned and overhauled. We start by disassembling all of the components. I carefully place all of the many pieces together
in groups. Sub-assemblies go together and the frames
are laid out, ending with the struts. This next set of pictures will give you a
pretty good idea of the large parts and various components, like the pedal arm assembly, the
grip rod, clutch and how these parts go together. Check out the detail that Premier went to,
to beautifully mark, even the underside of the base assembly. The pedal arm assembly is bar far the most
complicated, but luckily the nice people at Premier helped me out with assembly drawings.
This made the task much easier, especially for ordering replacement screws and specialty
parts. The clutch assembly was in very bad shape
and took quite awhile to clean and polish. The pedal mechanism was damaged and missing the rubber stops, release roller rod and the release rod. Some needed some serious repair. I did end up replacing some of the ball bearings in the clutch assembly. It’s important to note here that these photos helped during the reassembly process, for proper placement of the bushings and assembly of
the block and bearings. I purchased a few replacement parts from the
local Premier dealer. A pull rod, pivot screws and some cap screws. This is the pedal arm assembly after cleaning, polishing and reassembly. I only needed the new pivot screws, shown here for the clutch. …and these schematics helped to identify the parts. Now, it’s very important to properly lubricate
the areas on these parts before assembly, because it helps to eliminate friction and
binding later on. A small amount of lubricant on this washer
face and the underside here will make a big difference and it will make it easier for
fine tuning. This is where the tuning wheel screws to the
pull rod and for demonstration purposes only, I’ll leave this piece screwed on. Normally
it would be assembled, inside the crown, before screwing it onto the pull rod, like I’ve done
here. All of the crown parts, like this spider arm plate,need to be lubricated before final assembly. The pedal arm has been repaired and adjusted.
As you can see here, this is how the clutch is operated. By pushing up and down on the bottom of the
bushing, it releases the ball bearings and unlocks the clutch to allow an infinite pedal
adjustment on the grip rod. Here, … I’ll demonstrate how the release works by moving the pedal. It’s important to use a dry lubricant on the
pivot points on the pedal arm assembly for a quiet, smooth operation. All of the long linkage spider arms that are
exposed and not protected by the frame struts needed to be straightened and polished. This is our final clean table with all of
our small parts, nuts and bolts, linkages, assemblies and drawings, all ready to go back
into the finished frames. Finally, I needed to make replacement rubber
shoe cut outs for the base foot. Our next video will cover how I finished the
frames and bowls. You won’t want to miss that.

Premier Timpani Rebuild with DrumDial Part 1
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2 thoughts on “Premier Timpani Rebuild with DrumDial Part 1

  • January 14, 2017 at 7:27 pm

    Hi Steve, I wrote you a few months ago and asked you what you recommend using to clean the pedal arm assembly, and you DID respond by answering my question regarding the vertical rod that the clutch moves up and down on which enables us to stretch the head up or down. Somehow, I have lost that message and wondered if you could tell me again how you got all of grease and grime off that rod? I recall it was some type of sandpaper and I think you said something about silicone. Could you please tell me again? Thanks very much, Steve.

  • September 12, 2019 at 2:38 pm

    Hello, Steve! Where could I find these schematics from video? Thanks!


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